American Women's Club of Hamburg
 
 
Bewitching Budapest



By Nancy W

Originally published in Currents, June 2002
Copyright © 2002-2004 AWC Hamburg


The two cities of Buda and Pest are divided by the Danube River. The Buda side has wonderful rolling hills, while the Pest side of the city is a flat plain. Together they make one great city to spend a few days visiting.

We checked into our hotel and asked about guided tours of the city. For the first day we chose a trip that included the Parliament building. We were told that during both wars they removed the stained glass windows and hid them away in the countryside. They are the jewels of the building. You can also see the Hungarian crown jewels on display and guarded by two soldiers in historical uniforms. We recommend visiting this wonderful old building with its beautiful interior.

Budapest on the Pest side of the river is the main financial and shopping district. This area also includes the Opera House (a must see) and the wonderful old Market Hall that has been in operation since 1890. This was completely restored in 1994. Here you can find the beautiful hand-embroidered linens, local foods, etc. We found it interesting to walk through and look at the architecture of the structure. From this market you can walk along the main pedestrian street and look into all of the wonderful shops. You will find everything from antiques to upscale department stores; something for everyone. Take a break along the way and have a coffee outside and watch the people walk along.

The Castle Hill with its castle (now a museum) dominates the Buda side of the city. It rises 50 to 60 meters above the Danube. If you are going by car, a winding road which offers a wonderful view of the river and the city, starts at the Buda end of the Chain Bridge. However the most pleasant approach is on foot. I lost count going up and down so many steps. The whole Castle District area is the ancient kernel of the capital's right bank settlement and is protected as an ancient monument. The lines of the streets and the foundations and architectural remains of the buildings retain the atmosphere and memories of the medieval and eighteenth and nineteenth-century capital. This is a great place to have dinner in the evening and see the old Chain Bridge aglow with all of the lights.

Both sides of the city have many wonderful museums, the famous Turkish Baths and interesting places to spend an hour or a day. We were surprised to learn that there are so many Roman ruins in - and outside the city. There is a ruin of a coliseum that is bigger than the one in Rome. One more recommendation is to go and see the Hungarian State Folk Dancers perform. They stage an amazing folk dance show and dance in costume for two hours. You can see costumes and hear songs from all regions of Hungary.

One other day trip we enjoyed was to the town of Szentendre, an artist's colony. The small Baroque city is filled with winding streets, old churches, galleries and more. There is a ceramics museum and also a marzipan museum (worth a quick walk through). The city is about 10 kilometers north of Budapest and is on one of the tours.

I could go on and on about the food, the wine and the nice people. I feel that once this city is restored, it will be one of the prettiest in Europe. There are so many hidden treasures down every small street or in a courtyard. The weather is great in the spring but can be very hot in July and August.

Would we go back again for a second visit? Yes, in a heartbeat. We only scratched the surface of this old city this time.

Happy traveling!



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