AWCH "Old" Jersey

When I tell Americans that I’m from Jersey, the most frequent comment is: “It doesn’t sound like it!”, to which I have to explain that I mean “old” Jersey, the original, the one New Jersey got its name from. The second most frequent comment is, “Oh, I love Gerald Durrell!”

So, for those who have no idea – and there are many – let me give you a bit of the background. Jersey is the largest of the Channel Islands – or Iles Anglo-Normandes as the French call them. The others are Guernesey, Aldernay, Sark, Herm and Jetto.

Many centuries ago the Channel Islands were French and, in fact, on a clear day the coastline of France is visible from the east of Jersey, as it sits to the west of a kind of peninsula on the north coast of France that reaches into the channel. (When the tide is low, you can ride across to the mainland on a horse!) Then, following some strategic agreement with the French king William the Conqueror who became king of Britain, the islands were given a unique status which, even today, is hard to nail down. Each island has its own government (absolutely nothing to do with the Houses of Parliament in London), but is a British dependency, to be protected in case of war. They have their own currencies (the Jersey, Guernesey, etc. pounds), their own postage stamps, and they do not belong to the European Community. Jersey itself has the Jersey cow, a soulful, light brown mammal renowned and exported worldwide for its delicious milk. The situation is similar to that of Gibraltar or the Falkland Islands, though there seems to be no dispute with the French about “getting the islands back”!

There are a variety of reasons that make Jersey a wonderful place for a holiday destination; it is a beautiful island with a mild climate where you find every kind of beach imaginable. The south has a series of picturesque, sandy bays; the west, St. Quen’s – the “five mile beach” – which is a surfer’s paradise; along the north are rocky coves with cliffs and caves to be explored; on the east you find a combination of everything, including pebbly beaches. Coastal paths give you the chance to actually walk the whole way round this twenty by ten kilometre island – as stunning a hike as you might imagine. Inland you have quaint, rural countryside and twisting country lanes, which have hardly changed since the war (the Germans actually did build a few bunkers and an underground hospital which is now a museum). Construction is highly controlled, renovations can only follow strict guidelines, and immigration is extremely limited. It’s definitely a step back in time! The oldest buildings are granite farmhouses and manors, while along the coast you’ll find housing similar to the beach resorts of southern England, or quaint pubs like the Smugglers Inn at Ouaisne Bay hidden down a windy lane. Jersey also has two castles it can be proud of: Elizabeth Castle lies just off shore from the capital St. Helier, on a very small island. When the tide is low, it can be reached on foot; when it is high you need a boat! On the east coast is Gorey Castle at Grouville. Both have become museums dedicated to local history.

On the international arena, Jersey’s claim to fame (apart from being a tax haven) is probably the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (www.durrellwildlife.org) created by zoologist and author Gerald Durrell (My Family and Other Animals, Catch me a Colobus, and many more). The Trust – or Jersey Zoo as it is commonly called – is located in a graceful property (reminiscent of and inspirational to the zoo in the movie Fierce Creatures with John Cleese, Kevin Kline and Jamie Lee Curtis) and specialises in rebuilding the population of animals in risk of extinction and, whenever possible, reintroducing them into the wild. The success stories are many – in particular with the gorilla programme. It has become an international centre of study for wildlife preservation, visited by students from all over the world.

Jersey is a very popular summer destination and that is probably not the best time to go – unless you want to catch the Battle of Flowers (a parade of stunning floats decorated exclusively with flowers) in August. I would recommend late spring or early autumn, when everything is much quieter and one can truly appreciate everything the island has to offer. It’s a wonderful place to take kids (exploring rock pools at Corbière lighthouse when the tide is low was one of my favourite pastimes) or for a romantic trip for two.

To get to Jersey you can fly from London or Paris, or take a ferry from various south England ports or from St. Malo (worth a visit itself) in France. A hydrofoil also leaves from St. Malo, getting you to St. Helier in about an hour and a half. Taking a car over is pretty expensive, but renting one on the island is definitely worthwhile – hotels often arrange a good deal in conjunction with a room.

For more information about Jersey, there are two websites with ample information: www.jersey.com and www.jersey.co.uk.